STYLING PRODUCTS

Styling products are the final step in your wash day routine — but they can make or break your results. The wrong product can cause frizz, buildup, stiffness, or limp curls. The right product, applied correctly to the right hair type, delivers definition, moisture, and hold that lasts for days. This guide breaks down how to choose styling products based on your porosity, curl pattern, and desired finish.

Types of Styling Products and What They Do

• Curl Cream — A moisturizing styler that defines curls and coils while adding softness and shine. Best for medium to high porosity hair that needs moisture and definition without heavy hold. Apply to soaking wet hair for best clumping.
• Curl Custard/Gel — Provides stronger hold and definition than a curl cream. Creates a cast (a crunchy coating that protects the curl as it dries) that is scrunched out once hair is fully dry for soft, defined curls. Best for all porosity types that want longer-lasting definition.
• Moisture Milk — A lightweight, liquid styler that adds moisture and softness without heavy hold. Best for fine or low porosity hair that gets weighed down by heavier products, or for refreshing curls between wash days.
• Edge Control — A targeted product for laying edges and baby hairs. Look for formulas without harsh alcohols or heavy waxes that can dry out delicate hairline strands.

Styling by Porosity Type

• Low Porosity Hair — Needs lightweight stylers that won't add to buildup on tightly sealed cuticles. Apply products to soaking wet hair to maximize absorption. Avoid heavy butters and thick creams — opt for water-based gels and lightweight custards like our Curling Custard Gel Low to Medium Porosity.
• Medium Porosity Hair — Can handle a wider range of styling products. A curl cream layered under a gel or custard gives both moisture and hold. Apply to wet hair and scrunch upward to encourage curl formation.
• High Porosity Hair — Benefits from richer, more emollient stylers that seal in moisture and combat frizz. Layer a leave-in conditioner under a curl cream and finish with a gel or custard for maximum moisture retention and definition.

The LOC and LCO Methods: Which Is Right for You?

The LOC (Liquid, Oil, Cream) and LCO (Liquid, Cream, Oil) methods are layering techniques that maximize moisture retention by applying products in a specific order.

• LOC Method (Liquid → Oil → Cream) — Best for high porosity hair. The oil seals in the liquid moisture before the cream is applied, preventing rapid moisture loss.
• LCO Method (Liquid → Cream → Oil) — Best for low and medium porosity hair. The cream is applied before the oil so it can penetrate the cuticle more easily, with the oil sealing everything in at the end.

Ingredients to Avoid in Styling Products

• Drying alcohols (alcohol denat., isopropyl alcohol) — Evaporate quickly and strip moisture from the hair shaft, causing frizz and dryness.
• Heavy silicones — Create buildup that blocks moisture absorption over time. Require sulfate shampoos to remove, which defeats the purpose of a sulfate-free routine.
• Synthetic fragrances — Common irritants, especially for sensitive scalps.
• Mineral oil and petrolatum — Coat the hair shaft without penetrating, leading to buildup and blocked moisture.

Frequently Asked Questions About Styling Natural Hair

Should I apply styling products to wet or dry hair?

Always apply styling products to soaking wet hair for best results. Water is the primary source of moisture — styling products work by sealing that moisture in, not by adding moisture themselves. Applying to dry hair leads to frizz, uneven distribution, and poor curl definition.

Why are my curls crunchy after using gel?

Gel creates a cast as it dries — a protective coating that holds the curl in shape. This is normal and desirable. Once your hair is completely dry (not just surface dry), scrunch the cast out with your hands or a microfiber towel to reveal soft, defined curls underneath. Scrunching while wet will cause frizz.

How do I refresh my curls between wash days?

Spritz hair lightly with water or a water-based refresher spray, then scrunch in a small amount of your leave-in conditioner or moisture milk. Avoid adding too much product — buildup between wash days is a common cause of limp, weighed-down curls. Diffuse or air dry, then scrunch out any crunch.

Can I use styling products on low porosity hair without causing buildup?

Yes — the key is choosing lightweight, water-based formulas and applying them to soaking wet hair. Avoid heavy butters and thick creams on low porosity hair. Clarify regularly (every 1–2 weeks) with GrowPoo to remove any product accumulation and reset your strands before your next styling session.

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